With all the news of “monster winter waves” pounding the coast, I decided to wander down to San Onofre State Beach to check things out. I left the board at home and took the camera instead. That was the right decision. They were popping off like a string of Chinese firecrackers and there were a number of good surfers enjoying the fireworks. There were not your average sets — while I was there (less than an hour) one leash and one board snapped. But my question is who was the woman out there on the mint green board trunking it?

More pictures here.